Saturday, April 04, 2009
Friday, February 27, 2009

Friday, February 13, 2009

Thursday, February 05, 2009
I had to go out this morning to run some errands. We have been on midyear holiday from school and I needed to pay off my credit card and buy some groceries. I decided to walk to the bank which is only about 25 minutes on foot. My route to the bank takes me through a market called Soloman Gohar. I like this market... it has everything and anything a household might need. It was very early in the morning and since I was in no rush I was able to spend some time pricing the different vegetable carts and shops, absorbing the atmosphere around me. The gentleman in this photo was busy making pillows for a bedroom set. He's quick, and I am sure he made several sets today. I take this route home every afternoon from school. The mornings and the afternooons in Soloman Gohar have a completely different rythm. In the afternoons it is very crowded with people, cars, carts and donkeys, people shoving and arguing their way through their purchases. In the mornings, people are amiable, smiling and there is an air of gentle calm. I saw the woman who works on the street behind my home parking cars near the Kuwaiti Embassy. She had purchased a huge cabbage and was carrying it on her head along with several loaves of bread in a plastic bag. I greeted her when she passed me and her little boy kept smiling at me until he turned the corner. I saw an American woman who works for a school here in Cairo. We stopped and chatted for about 20 minutes and then I moved on towards the bank. I couldn't help but think about those two women during my walk. Two women, from completely different cultural backgrounds, living the same life style, both poor, both struggling to raise their kids, both primary income earners for their families. Everyday I see the Egyptian mother parking cars near the Kuwaiti Embassy beside my home. She's very tall, slim, and carries herself in a way that is almost elegant. She is attractive, and with some new clothes, I am sure she would pass for some of the higher class Caireens in any five star hotel lobby. She always has a smile on her face, moderate voice in dealing with others, and always looks clean. Her son is always playing near her, but I have never seen him misbehave. He is quite and mannerly. Her husband is there too...always sitting in a white plastic chair, smoking his cigarettes and drinking his tea. He doesn't even look like someone she would be married too. He is unkempt, dirty and looks uneducated. I have never seen him get up out of that chair and do any work in all these years. Only his wife. She as an Egyptian female, growing up in the socioeconomic class that she did, probably feels she is doing ok. She is married, has a son, makes some money, and her struggles are not unlike her neighbors, her sisters, or even her mother's. Perhaps to some degree, she is better off in many aspects than others of her class level. I don't know, and I would surely never ask her. I respect her, and I admire her resiliance and integrity. The American teacher....well, it has never ceased to amaze me with all the stories I hear or the women I have met in all these years here in Cairo, how any Americans growing up in the United States of America with our freedoms and the right to choice, would choose to come to Egypt and live like the Egyptian mom I just spoke about. A friend and I were talking about this the other day and her experience with these types of women has been more than mine. She thinks if you are going to end up marrying some poor, uneducated Egyptian, and live in a poor district of Cairo then you should have stayed in the states, married some poor, uneducated nobody, moved into the projects and lived on state aid. For sure you would be living better there, than here. I tend to agree. If I had a penny for every story I have heard about women coming here, falling in love with some poor Egyptian man, someone like the guy in this picture, getting married, immediately getting pregnant, and then realizing that the "love of their life" turns out to be the "biggest mistake of their life." Stories of women buying homes, thinking that they are going to be building lives with the men they love, and then getting kicked out, only to realize that the home was bought and purchased with her money, but in his name. Women who have married these men, and never knew that they were a second wife. Women who have had money stolen from them, their children stolen from them, and their lives destroyed. And there are many, who stick it out, because they don't know what else they should do, don't want to lose their children, and have no other choices. Some do make it out, but many stay. I feel empathy for these women, but I am unable to build friendships with them. I have nothing in common with these women, even if we share the same nationality. I completed my errand at the bank and on the way home I greeted the Egyptian mom and waved to her son. I realized in the lift on the way up to my flat, that I had lost respect for the American mom I had chatted with today in the souk. Her choice to stay in the situation she had described to me earlier was illogical and incomprehensible to me. I felt sad and guilty that I could so easily dismiss her and discount her right to choice. Was it right for me to judge her based on her choices? Was it really correct for me to impose my standards of success upon her? I don't think so, but I still could not help but feel the way I did. I will see both of those women again, perhaps on the street, maybe at an educational conference. The outcome of these meetings will always be the same for me. I will admire the one that is striving to do her best with the social class that she has been born into, and I will always be congenial but reluctant to engage the American, who I feel threw away all the priviliges it is to be American, right to choice and the right to personal success. Until next time,
A Woman of Egypt
Saturday, January 31, 2009
1. My zodiac sign is a Scorpio...it is the only sign in the zodiac with three animal totems..the scorpion, eagle and the dove.
2. My Chinese sign is the Monkey. I assume this is where my insatiable curiosity about the world comes from.
3. My mother told me I never slept in a fetal position as an infant and I potty trained earlier than children my age. It seems I preferred to potty instead of wearing dirty diapers. Who wouldn't?
4. As a preschooler, I did not like to wear socks. I did not like the way they felt on my toes..I felt constricted. That was a daily argument.
5. I did not like to wash, brush, or wear hair barrets, pig tails, and/or pony tails in my hair. My mother and Nana (the black lady who raised my sisters and I) were both heavy handed and rough. That too, was a daily argument and one that I won on many occasions as witnessed by several preschool photos where my hair looked like a Crisco commercial and let's not even discuss the way my hair was parted.
6. I did not like black patent leather shoes. They were hard and the soles were slick. I refused to wear black patent leather shoes. If I had my way, I would have been barefoot daily.
7. My mission in life as a primary student was to make sure I was at my grandmothers every Saturday morning by 7:00 am to have a cup of instant coffee with a slice of hoop cheese in it, eat eggs and toast, watch cartoons, and help her "clean her house" before we went "shopping" at Roses dimestore later that afternoon. I was making my phone calls to her home by 6:30 a.m. to get my grandfather to come and pick me up....and he always would.
8. I remember trying to get "rid" of my sister Emeri by placing her in the middle of Bonner Street and sitting and waiting on the curb for someone to come and "pick" her up. There was not much traffic, but finally a neighbor came by and got both of us out of the street and I of course got in trouble for that.
9. We lived beside a cemetary and I used to play and set up camp in and around the gravestones. I was so scared when some of the neighborhood boys told us that dead people came out of those places at night and would come to get anyone that messed with their graves and KILL them. That was the end of my play days in the cemetary.
10. I realized when I was ten years old how words can hurt to the core when those very same boys called me a "N**gg*r lover" and I quickly proceeded to ask my beloved Nana (the black woman that raised my sisters and I) what that meant, and I can't forget the look of hurt and pain on her face. That was a defining moment in my life.
11. I refused to learn math in Mr. Tettertons 3rd grade math class. I could not understand why I had to learn division and multiplication tables when it made no sense to me in the "reality of my life" at that time. I would tune him out, turn the class off, and open a book and read through the whole math class. I REFUSED to do it and both Mr. Tetterton and my parents were at a loss to manage me. I never did math that year. I read the whole of the Nancy Drew series in his math class that year.
11. Reading and books were my passion. I found a new passion during the 5th grade and that was about the world. I got a library pass one day for whatever reason (probably math class) and when I went to the library, the librarian gave me a book to read called "Born Free." Elsa and her familys adventures became my new passion. After that, I was onto a whole new level of thinking and I realized there was a big wide world outside of Washington, NC and I needed to see it.
12. When I was 14, I realized that I never wanted to get married and have kids. I can't remember how or why I came to this profound inner knowledge, but I knew that I never would.
13. I did get married, and this is my second marriage. I married foreigners on both occasions. I do beleive I have found my mate in this one. I never did have kids.
14. I once flew back from Dubai with refresh wipes over my face to block the horrific body odor of the passenger sitting next to my husband. I had to ask the steward to bring me extras. My husband was embarrased...but I didn't care. It was either the refresh wipes, or me giving that passenger a lecture about the foul effects of poor hygiene. I think the wet wipes were better.
15. One day while I was studying for my teaching certificate from Cambridge University, I went to the on campus bookstore to purchase some study guides. While making my purchase I had a conciliatory conversation with an African man about the weather and etc. I paid and said goodbye. When I went back to my class, I was a huge hit with the staff and students as it seemed that the African gentleman I was speaking to was Robert Mugabe, the President of Zimbabwe. I had no idea who the man was and it seems that all campus traffic was halted while he was ordering books for his schools. I have no idea why they let me in while he was there, but I did start reading more about African politics from that point.
16. I have met many well known people while living here in Cairo. I had a well known female singer tell me that I needed to go on a diet. I met Yasser Arafat's nephew at the club through my husband, and I had a member of parliament ask me for private English lessons. That was a bit shady, and I never did. I also saw one of Osama bin Laden's sons at the grocery store next to my home. I didn't know who he was at the time, but I told my husband "check out that Arab with the dread locks." We later saw him on a local TV program promoting a desert horse race through the Arab Peninsula. He is very attractive by the way.
17. I have no fear of death...and no fear of my immortality. I feel that nobody lives past the time that God has designated for them. I do fear one thing, and that is a DENTAL visit. That is the ultimate test of my courage, the dentist.
18. I suffer from body dysmorphia. In my mind, I am a dynamic, articulate, well read, well traveled, poised, highly energetic, mover and shaker with abounding confidence. When I look at my figure in the mirror, I see some saggy breasts, donut rolls, cottage cheese dimpled skin, a rear like a dump truck, and some serious vericose veins. I think, whoooo, who is THAT, and I have to take a second look. I still can't align the body with the spirit even now at 40+.
19. I dislike men with a weak character.
20. Even more than I dislike weak, cowardly men...I have a distaste for weak women who accept anything less than common courtesy and consideration.
21. I love to eat local and ethnic food from the carts on the streets of places that I have traveled. This is not a good thing, and is a serious cause for hepatitis..but I adore these places.
22. The older I get the more suspicious I am of other peoples motives. I rarely allow people into my personal confidance.
23. I hope to grow old gracefully, without Botox injections and medical interventions with the sags and bags. So far I don't beleive in that plastic surgery farce, but you never know what may happen in 10 years.
24. I am fearful that I will grow old and be a burden on my husband in our old age. I do not want this to happen, and I can only PRAY to God that it will not. I told him if I ever get senile and crazier than I am now, just drop me at the nearest nursing home and drive off, they will know what to do.
25. I am my biggest fan, and so should anything ever happen to me, know that I DID NOT commit suicide.
Until next time,
A Woman of Egypt
Thursday, January 22, 2009

ded holiday. Living in Cairo is not for the faint of heart. Its dense population has created horrific traffic challenges, short tempers, and a mindless disregard for others. I faced the aforementioned as an educator this week. The mother of one of my students came to school and interrupted my first class to tell me that she had informed her son that should any student hit him, then he should hit him back, with force. I explained to this mother that we had a "Hands Off" policy at school and are trying to teach our students to use words not fists when facing a problem. She said "No, this is wrong, and it doesn't work." She felt that each child has the right to defend himself and that our school policy should be changed. After realizing that I would never be able to convince her otherwise, I asked her to please speak to my principal about the matter. On one hand, I do understand the complex reasons behind her feelings and I can appreciate her logic. Even armed with an understanding of the complexities of our culture, I still felt let down that she didn't trust the school enough to support our endeavors to create change within our school community. That was just the first day of the week, things deteriorated even further. Our fourth and fifth grade class were scheduled to go on a field trip. The day arrived, the kids were outside ready to board the bus, and from out of the blue two of the fourth grade parents showed up and would not allow the bus to leave with the kids on it. Their sons were in in-school suspension and were not allowed to go on the field trip. Both sets of these parents created a scene in the middle of our street, in front of our school, used inappropriate language, took the keys from the bus driver and refused to give it back until their children were allowed to board the bus. Cars were backed up on the street and began blowing their horns and drivers started yelling. Our school director arrived to take care of the situation and the bus finally left for the trip. It seems that several threats were used by the parents to persuade our director to let the boys attend the field trip, and thankfully, our director held firm to her position. After several other issues cropped up during the week, our school secretary decided to play quron and burn bohur in the early morning to rid our school of the evil elements. Even though this is a nice thing we do as a part of our culture, it didn't seem to work. My week ended with a parent and her two sons in the principals office confirming what we knew to be a family living in a very difficult and trying family situation. Each person in that meetings was brought to tears and I ached for this family. I left immediately after school with a very heavy heart. I reflected on the week on my way home. How can we as educators try to instil in our students respect for others, respect for self, community awareness and philanthropy, and small acts of kindness when our parents are not modeling approprate behavior nor supporting our efforts... or if providing support, then only superficially? Where did we go wrong as educators in communicating school policy? Have we lost the parents trust in our school and its judgement when it comes to school policy and enforcement? Could it be that we live in a city where just getting out the door of your home is a struggle, to move your car out of a parking space on the street or garage costs you money, a city where we don't have space to move, a city where Peter robs Paul, then Paul robs Peter back, just to stay afloat? A city where nobody trusts or beleives in the other? I am not sure....but it is depressing. I hope that the upcoming week is going to start on a high note.
Saturday, January 17, 2009

Wednesday, January 07, 2009
Until next time,
A Woman of Egypt
Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Sunday, September 14, 2008
A friend of mine sent me this article in an e-mail. I thought it was profound and decided to share it. You can read the whole article in its entirety at:
With most of its people struggling, and reform blocked, Egypt faces an uncertain and possibly dangerous future. EGYPTIANS have long excelled at putting a good face on things. Four millennia ago they built temples whose towering facades and grand doorways hid dark and cramped interiors. Relief carvings depicted giant pharaohs smiting dwarf-like enemies, and showed the Nile teeming withfish and waterfowl. In reality, ancient Egypt was often invaded. Ruinous famines punctuated its years of plenty. Today, a blinkered visitor might choose to see nothing of Egypt but posh beach resorts and gleaming factories, and hear of little but strong economic growth and a stable, secular government committed to reform. In the Smart Village, a campuslike technology park on Cairo's western outskirts, construction cranes glint in the mirrored glass of office blocks bearing multinational logos such as Microsoft, Oracle and Vodafone, as well as those of fast-expanding home-grown IT firms. Beyond its perimeter, past a strip of hypermarkets, fast-food outlets and car dealerships, stretch thousands of acres of new suburbs, complete with gated communities, golf courses and private schools. Twenty years ago, the highway that stretches 200km from there to Alexandria ran through empty desert. Lush fields now line the entire crowded, six-lane route, many planted with drip-irrigated garden crops for lucrative European markets. But remove the blinkers, and the flood of impressions could be starkly different. A glance down one of the narrow, rubbish-strewn alleyways of brick tenements where half of Cairo's people actually live may reveal a crowd of head-scarved housewives pushing and cursing in an early-morning queue for government-subsidised bread. Such daily humiliations are punctuated by bigger tragedies which, all too often, prove to be the consequence of government negligence. Earlier this month a cliff collapsed on the eastern edge of the capital, hurling giant boulders into a warren of flimsy slum dwellings that had been erected, illegally, in defiance of dire warnings that the site was unsafe. The rockfall buried dozens, perhaps hundreds, of residents alive. Locals complain that long-promised alternative housing had been given to friends and relations of government officials, rather than the needy. The fact is that most of Egypt's 75m people struggle to get by, their ambitions thwarted by rising prices, appalling state schools, capricious judges, a plodding and corrupt bureaucracy and a cronyist regime that pretends democracy but in fact crushes all challengers and excludes all participation. The visitor might well conclude that by damming up the normal flow of politics, Egypt's rulers risk bringing on a deluge. Given rising resentment against the government and a generation-long resurgence of religious feeling, and given the simple fact that Hosni Mubarak, Egypt's president of the past 27 years, is now 80 years old with no clear successor, it takes little imagination to conjure up an Islamic-tinged revolution sweeping away the autocratic state created in the wake of Egypt's last big dynastic upheaval, the officers' coup of July 1952 that overthrew King Farouk. Considering Egypt's position as the most populous, politically weighty and geographically pivotal Arab state, the ripples could spread wider, too, upsetting the region's already fragile power structure. Such visions seem to be common these days. A recent book in English carries the subtitle "The Land of the Pharaohs on the Brink of Revolution". Another, in Arabic, simply titled "The Final Days", sports a scowling caricature of President Mubarak on its cover. "This regime is clinically dead and we merely await its funeral," writes the author, Hamdi Qandil, a prominent Egyptian journalist and critic of the regime. "All paths for peaceful and gradual change are blocked," he concludes. "The only course left is civil disobedience." Many Egyptians appear to have adopted this advice of late. Spontaneous protests have erupted with alarming regularity, ranging from factory strikes to land disputes to urban riots over food prices that have risen even faster than the current, unnerving overall inflation rate of 23%. So far such outbursts have remained disjointed and localised, allowing the government to parry them with a mix of carrots and sticks. Brutal policing has silenced some activists. Wage increases--such as a 30% rise for government workers in May--and a promised widening of state subsidies for essential goods have soothed a few tempers. Yet the common refrain in Cairo salons is of how similar the mood is to the pre-revolutionary atmosphere of 1952. Then, as now, the gap between a very rich few and the teeming mass of have-nots seemed to yawn ever wider. Then, 2,000 vast estates occupied half of Egypt's fertile land, while millions of illiterate peasants toiled as sharecroppers. Today, 44% of Egyptians still count as poor or extremely poor, with some 2.6m people so destitute that their entire income cannot cover basic food needs, let alone other expenses. Yet ranks of private jets clutter Cairo's airport. The flower arrangements at a recent posh wedding, where whisky flowed and the gowns fluttered in from Paris and Milan, were reputed to have cost $60,000 in a country where the average wage is less than $100 a month. THE BAND OF BROTHERS Lurking in the background then, as now, was the shadowy force of the Muslim Brotherhood. Having helped prepare the ground for the 1952 coup, the Brothers may have expected reward from the army officers in charge. Instead they were hounded and imprisoned, and allowed to resurface in Egyptian politics only 30 years later. Their suppression radicalised some Islamists, helping spread jihadist ideas such as those that inspired al-Qaeda. Yet the core of Brotherhood supporters remained committed to a strategy of peaceful change. Since the 1980s the Brotherhood has emerged as the strongest force in a political opposition mostly made up of tiny, fractious parties. It captured a fifth of parliamentary seats at the last elections, in 2005, and would have taken more without blunt police intervention at the polls. That success so irked the government that, in the interim, it has moved again to squeeze the Brotherhood. Aside from changing the constitution so that it formally banned parties based on religion, it has mounted repeated campaigns of arrest and harassment, including confiscation of business assets. Having postponed municipal elections scheduled for 2006 until earlier this year, the regime simply disqualified all but a handful of Brotherhood candidates. The ruling>National Democratic Party ran unopposed in 80% of districts, winning all but 1,000 of the 52,000 seats. Voter turnout was reckoned at less than 5%, reflecting widespread disgust with the charade. Yet the Brotherhood displays some of the same flaws as its oppressors. Its leadership is also ageing and opaque, and has proved slow to respond to events. Recent changes in its hierarchy, arranged behind closed doors, have seen the promotion of conservative ideologues at the expense of younger reformers. Perhaps more important, the Brotherhood's diminishing capacity to deliver benefits to constituents has prompted pragmatists, the probable silent majority in a country with an incomparably long and justifiably sceptical political memory, to look elsewhere for patronage and> > protection. And there is another clear obstacle to the Brotherhood's progress. The 10% Coptic Christian minority, made nervous anyhow by sporadic outbreaks of sectarian violence, wholeheartedly rejects the Brothers, while fear of further sectarian unrest makes many Muslim Egyptians wary of them, too. But if most Egyptians appear to prefer evolution to revolution, there is no clear trajectory. The government itself, a behemoth with 6m employees, appears divided. Its ministries sound like those in other states, but many are run like medieval fiefs. The army, police, secret police, justice, the lucrative petroleum industry and foreign relations fall under the purview of the presidency, which tends to view all of them through a prism of state security and regime survival. This relegates to the hard-working prime minister, Ahmed Nazif, a diminished portfolio restricted to economic and social policy. Since his appointment in 2004, Mr Nazif and his team of technocrats, many of them Western-educated businessmen, have enacted long-delayed economic reforms. A dramatic slashing of tariffs and taxes, along with crucial changes to investment rules, has helped push the overall growth rate from below 4% to above 7%. Exports have more than doubled, from $9 billion in 2003 to $24 billion last year, with trade volume growing from 46% to 66% of a GDP that is expected to top $150 billion this year. Revenues have been boosted not only by high oil prices and the coming on stream of sizeable gas exports but, more significantly, by a doubling of income from the Suez Canal, a surge in industrial exports and a doubling of tourist arrivals, which reached a record 13m last year. With Cairo's stock index soaring (at least until a recent> > summertime slump, in line with the rest of the world), with exchange> > rates holding steady and property values booming, foreign direct investment has also accelerated, reaching $11 billion in 2007--five times the 2004 level--and a probable similar amount this year. CARS AND BREAD Many complain that while Egypt's industrialists have profited mightily, new wealth has failed to trickle down. Unskilled wages do remain dismally low, yet plenty of evidence points to broadening prosperity. Sales of private cars, for instance, have quadrupled since 2004 as a whole new class of Egyptians has taken to the ever-more-clogged roads. Franchise outlets sprout not only in wealthy parts of Cairo, but in dowdy provincial towns where state-run department stores once offered the only dusty glimpse of glamour. Amid a claimed fall in unemployment from 11% to just over 8% between 2003 and 2008, shortages of skilled labour have rapidly boosted white-collar wages. Indeed, some businessmen reckon that the biggest damper on growth just now is the dismal quality of Egypt's university graduates. Although statistics in Egypt are notoriously wobbly, there are signs that some pressing social tensions have eased. Ten years ago, for instance, 63% of Egyptian men remained unmarried at 30, a frightening indicator in a tradition-bound society where marriage is seen as a prerequisite for independence and adulthood. That figure fell to 45% in 2006. This shows that the cost of marriage, which typically includes the purchase and furnishing of a house, remains prohibitive for many, but it also suggests that the level of youth frustration may be dropping. Crucially, too, for a country whose inhabited area is barely the size of the Netherlands, the rate of population growth has slowed, from 2.3% a year in the 1980s to 1.9% today. And although Egyptians moan, with reason, about accelerating inflation,consumers have been spared the sting of global commodity-price spikes. Bread, the staple food, is still widely available at a subsidised price equal to one American cent a loaf, a fraction of its real price. Bottled cooking gas sells at one-sixth of its cost to the government. And despite a recent hike in petrol prices, a litre still costs one-eighth of its average price in Europe. Prices for other goods are still surging, but the government, made jittery by the ugly public mood, does try to help. To pay for May's 30%wage rise, it raised taxes on non-essential items such as cigarettes and luxury cars and put up energy costs for power-intensive industries. A proposed new property tax will exempt most householders, targeting only the relatively well-off. In an effort to hold down local prices,> rice exports have been banned. WHITTLING AT FREEDOM But the government's relative nimbleness on the economy has not been> > matched on other fronts. The crackdown on the Muslim Brotherhood comes in the context of a broader shift towards greater authoritarianism, and in direct contradiction to promises of political reform. Before he started his fifth term in office, in 2005, Mr Mubarak promised more democracy. But despite some advances, for instance in allowing a more critical, privately owned press to flourish, his regime has systematically whittled away civic freedoms. In May, for instance, the government abruptly extended for two years the official state of emergency, saying that new antiterrorism laws were not yet ready. The emergency laws, which are meant to be applied only against violent threats to the state, have in fact been wielded against every manner of dissent. In one form or another they have been in force for all but three of the past 50 years. More recently, in an effort to tackle the indiscipline and deaths on Egyptian roads, the government passed a traffic law that applies stiff fines and prison sentences for minor infractions. The public is outraged at the higher bribes that police now command. Despite the occasional disciplining of officers, the regime's security forces operate with scant accountability. Charges of torture are commonplace. Court action is slow, and subject to both manipulation from above and bribery from below. Citizens therefore resort to private vendettas and the state resorts to security measures, such as sending in riot police, rather than social policies to make things better.In May the American president, George Bush, raised hackles by declaring, in the resort boomtown of Sharm el-Sheikh, that Egypt had disappointed hopes that it might lead the region in democratic reform. "Too often in the Middle East," he intoned, "politics has consisted of one leader in power and the opposition in jail." His host disdained to listen to the speech, and even many of Mr Mubarak's Egyptian critics bristled at being lectured by a singularly unpopular Western leader. Yet many admitted, too, that Mr Bush was on target, especially considering that Ayman Nour, a young, secular politician who was the distant runner-up to Mr Mubarak in the 2005 presidential election, has languished in jail ever since, on flimsy charges of forgery. The displeasure signalled by Mr Bush reflected another fact. During his administration Egypt's relations with the United States have sunk to their lowest point since the 1973 war with Israel. This reflects not just a shift in American attention towards other parts of the region,and American ire at Egypt's ugly human-rights record, but also Egyptian annoyance over policies such as the invasion of Iraq and the Bush administration's uncritical embrace of Israel. Diplomats on both sides downplay differences, ascribing recent bitterness to the kind of sharp words exchanged between friends. Yet Egypt now has few supporters in Washington. Its influence in the region is also diminished. Egypt has recently struggled simply to effect a ceasefire between Israel and Hamas, the Palestinian Islamist party that seized power last year in neighbouring Gaza, or to calm the squabbling Palestinian factions. Since he has been in office, Mr Mubarak has cleverly used the occasional sign of difference with America to bolster his nationalist credentials, while using Egypt's regional weight to please Washington. Such LEGERDEMAIN is no longer possible. What concentrates both American and Egyptian minds just now is not what Egypt's president will do, but what happens after he goes. This, understandably, is a staple of Cairo conversation. Government spokesmen point to rules that call for elections within 60 days of the presidential office being vacated. The constitution's finer print stipulates that candidates can come only from parties that are legal, have held parliamentary seats for at least five years and can garner signatures from hundreds of elected local officials. The only party that can easily fulfil all these criteria is Mr Mubarak's National Democratic Party, which might then choose, for the sake of window-dressing, to endorse a few rival candidates from the handful of weak secular parties. There is little doubt who the NDP would choose for its own presidential ticket. The party's vast patronage network, which began as a legacy of one-party rule in the socialist 1960s, has been slowly taken over by a newer breed of businessmen loyal to Mr Mubarak's 44-year-old son Gamal, who chairs its policy committee. A MURKY SUCCESSION Yet although the younger Mr Mubarak has been an earnest champion of economic liberalism, the word among Cairo's chattering classes is that he lacks popular appeal, representing precisely the business elite that ordinary Egyptians have come to loathe. More important, it remains an open question whether Gamal Mubarak has the support of the army, police and intelligence services. Some assert that this "deep state" would not countenance an inherited presidency, preferring instead to promote a more trusted figure from within, in a Putin-like shift to ungloved control. As yet, however, no such person has developed the kind of public profile that might be expected of a likely contender. Indeed, one of the reasons for the elder Mr Mubarak's endurance, aside from his aversion to risk, has been his skill at sidelining potential rivals and playing the various security branches against each other. In another country, the murkiness of the succession, at such a time of> > severe social strain, would be a cause for grave alarm. Many Egyptians are, in fact, worried. Yet the consensus is still that, in line with previous transitions between Egyptian presidents, serious unrest is not likely to accompany the change, whether it is brought about by the rules, or in breach of them. The security establishment, assuming it remains unified, is large and ruthless. The frailty of Egypt's economy, with its reliance on tourism and foreign investment, makes a powerful argument for pursuing continuity rather than taking radical departures. And the mix of Egypt's geostrategic importance with its weakness suggests that it could continue to rely on generous foreign patrons. The country's future administrators may be tempted to make populist gestures, and would likely reap a quick reward of loud public relief, after too long under familiar rule. They might even opt for a tactical alliance with the Muslim Brotherhood. But the fact is that, whoever runs Egypt, the task of housing, feeding and schooling all those millions, let alone overhauling the country's myriad crumbling institutions, will leave little energy for other adventures. No wonder that most Egyptians, when asked what is in store for their country, tend to use the open-handed shrug with which they meet life's daily mysteries, and invoke the protection of God.
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Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Evidence Exhibit A) In the photo above you will notice that our "family/tv room" is well used. It is always occupied and a place for computer games, school work, watching tv, eating breakfast, snacks, drinking tea, eating biscuits, talking on the mobile, and gathering. If one wishes to take an afternoon nap, it would be much more comfortable for HIM (and us) to sleep in the BEDROOM and leaving the rest of us to eat, snack, talk on the mobile, watch tv, play computer and gather in peace.

Evidence Exhibit B) This is a basket where I keep prayer rugs, blanket throws, and the days newspaper. As you can see, it has now become a catch all for empty plastic bags. As you may see, to the immediate left is a TRASH CAN. Go figure?!

Evidence Exhibit D) A towel used after the shower has been left on the bed. I am sure the person will bring another tomorrow to join this one. Never mind that it is all wet, and crumpled.
Now, I have other exhibits...tea cups, cookie wrappers, dishes and other items I could include. Socks, that is a whole blog in and of itself. However, I will track these few items over the next few days and we will see what has transpired. I am sure that I will be the only one bothered....but I am willing to let my need to control everything around me to go for this experiement. Stay tuned to the updates over the next several days!
Until next time,
A Woman of Egypt
Monday, August 18, 2008
In the past couple of months two members of the Nedi Gezira (Egypts version of a Country Club) have had heart attacks and died on the way to the hospital. One at the squash courts and one in the mens locker room. My husband was in the vicinity of both of these emergencies, along with several other doctors, and neither one of these men lived. Our club has an ambulance which is located on the club premises. Basically, this ambulance is a microbus. The ambulance contains a stretcher, 2 air tanks, and the drivers. On both of these occasions, only one air tank was working and it seems that it had critical air flow problems. Every single physician that attended to both of these poor men felt that if they had a decent ambulance with the neccessary lifesaving equipment that perhaps both of these fatalities may have been avoided. Egypt has recently implemented much more stringent traffic laws. I am hoping that they will consider equipping their ambulances with the things that one needs to save lives here in Egypt as well. Training for personel and basic life saving support is a must.Until next time,
A Woman of Egypt
Thursday, August 14, 2008

Friday, August 08, 2008

Thursday, July 24, 2008
My Mind, Body and Soul Mission Summer 2008 got a little off track over the past 7 days. My husband decided that we are moving to North Carolina next summer. This is great, but I had to spend some time getting organized, like filing TAXES, 6 years worth to be exact....who knew you have to file US taxes when you earn a foreign income?? Once I have a task to complete, I have to do it and finish it. The problem was my undertaking took several days at home on the PC and I put on 3 pounds. My summer mission has really been insightful. Not only have I learned that I need to start working on my negative attitude and that I have taken on the identity of the city I am living in, but I also have a problem eating when I am bored. If I am engaged in an activity that is keeping me busy, I don't snack. Over the past few days at home working on my PC, I probably spent most of that time standing in front of the fridge with the door open, as though something new has popped in since the last hour. I hate to acknowledge all these negative attributes about myself, but if I am going to get real and work my own self-improvement program for the summer, I have to be honest. It is hard to realize that I am picking up some really bad habits, and exuding some really negative vibes. I read in Eckhart Tolle's book, A New Earth that "I am doing just fine, thank you" is a role the ego plays more commonly in America than in certain other countries where being and looking miserable is the norm and therefore more socially acceptable." When I read that my mouth dropped to the floor. That is such a profound statement, and so true, for myself as an American and as an Egyptian. No wonder I am in such a flux, as an American I want to fake it and smile and "be right", and as an Egyptian I want to ventilate and "be right." Either way, I want to be right about everything and to be validated that I am right, and then have a snack. Yep, it is difficult working the Mind, Body and Soul Mission Summer 2008 program. Perhaps I don't need to know myself that well.....to much knowledge about ones self has to be detrimental to your mental health. On that note..
Until next time,
A Woman of Egypt
Thursday, July 17, 2008

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Sunday, July 13, 2008
In retrospect, I have come to realize that my attitude and general unhappiness over the past year is my own doing. I returned from my summer holiday last year in Europe with a heavy heart, and I have felt burdened since. I did not want to come back, and that has been reflected in my attitude towards myself and others over the past year. I thought that if I made a spiritual journey, I would come back with my batteries recharged and a new prospective. My trip for Umrah was set up for failure on my part, because I expected something which did not thappen. I don't know if I thought I would hear harps playing, see Angels, have a personality change...I have no idea. I do know that I "got it" once I returned from Saudi Arabia. I realized that when I came back to Cairo last summer, I actually did not want to be here. I wanted to be with my husband, I missed him and loved him, I love my job and I wanted to return to work, but I did not want to live in this city any longer. If I could take my husband and my job out of the city, I would be very happy. I resented in some small way having to come back, and as soon as my flight landed in Cairo from Italy, I was primed with a grievance. That grievance snow balled over the year, and as a consequence I reacted to anything and everything with negativity. I was charged and what compounded my problem is that the other 28 million people in the city are charged in the same negative way. The moment you step outside of your home in Cairo you encounter a struggle. Everyone is struggling for space, air, recognition, money, peace of mind....you name it, we are struggling. I had lost my perspective, and I had become part of the problem. I was finding fault with everyone around me. I had comepletely lost my identity and absorbed the ones around me. I became a living, breathing, aggressive, defensive, argumentative whiner that was taking everything around me personally. I can't tell you how many times I told my husband that the taxi drivers know me now, and I have to argue with them all daily or otherwise they don't pick me up at all. That is incredible, and I have no idea how I came to that informed idea as we have millions of taxis in the city alone. I am sure in retrospect they do not know me personally. I had taken on the crazy, chaotic lifestyle of this city as my identity, and I was not handling it well at all. I was not optimistic and/or looking on the bright side of anything or anyone. I viewed everyone and all ideas with sarcasm and derision, I was not a happy camper and I did not like myself. That is one of the reasons why I decided to work on Mind, Body and Soul during the summer holiday. My trip to Umrah was a part of that experience, and my dissatisfaction had nothing to do with my trip. I needed to change my perspective.Until next time,
A Woman of Egypt
Saturday, July 12, 2008

Friday, July 11, 2008
After the Umrah the night before, and my disappointment with my inability to feel the "moving religious awakening" that I thought would miraculously appear, I had no idea that the next day would be one of my breaking points. Perhaps it was due to exhaustion, maybe it had even more to do with the fact that I was on day 12 of a hormone to delay the onset of my menstruation, only God knows...but I know that I was ill equipped to deal with the events of the next day. After finding a spot to pray (it was very busy at the noon prayer) in the middle of my supplications that I could not make the night before, I felt some slight fiddling around my ankles. I looked down, in the middle of "God, please give everyone clean, safe drinking water".... to find two women investigating my white galabaya, pants, and socks. I could not beleive what I was seeing, they were actually lifting it up and looking at the stitching of my pants and socks. I was so flabbergasted, I did not know what to do. How on earth could I pray about preserving and taking care of our natural resources when the people in the mosque needed some serious supplications themselves. I completely lost all train of thought and eventually they noticed me looking at them and they gave my galabaya a good tug, as though to straighten it out, and started looking forward. The mosque was really starting to fill up and I ended up praying on top of my bag that held my shoes and all the while someone else was poking my feet from behind to get me to move, as though there was any room to move. When the prayer ended, I got out and met my husband and I was in tears. I told him the whole experience was terrible and I was ready to leave and come back home to Cairo. He looked crestfallen and did not know what to say. I only wanted to get out of that area and go to my room, and NEVER leave it again until our flight. He made me stop in the grocery store (against my will) and we made some purchases. I was in such a state, I could barely contain myself waiting for him to choose which deodorant he wanted. We finally paid and he asked me to wait while he went back in to look at something else. I was so irritated, tired, and frustrated and I was just biting my tongue to not start crying. I have never felt so torn inside. The spiritual awakening I had anticipated for my Body, Soul and Mind Mission Summer 2008 was not panning out. I hated the crowd, I hated praying in a jumble of people, I hated the whole mess and now I was standing outside of a grocery store, against my will, waiting for my husband to look for a tea kettle. I wanted to go back to Cairo and sooner, rather than later. We had purchased some cold pepsi's and water and so I took one out of the bags I was holding and opened it and took a swallow. In that moment, a woman wearing a niqab came by and pointed to my Pepsi and my hand. I asked her in Arabic what happened, and she responded in English that I was drinkng out of the wrong hand, and how long had I been a muslim and I had a lot to learn! Well, that was it. I walked off, left my husband, went to the room and I swore I was never coming back out till we left for the airport. Heba, my colleague (my Umrah guide and companion, God bless her) came in with some Baskin and Robbins and we had a good laugh about people's behavior and she told me that I had to get strong, toughen up and get with the program, it was my personal Jihad (struggle) to deal with everything and I had better get my mind straight. She was right, and I was able to get my program back on track. I think that what I expected of Mecca was different from what I found, and I was disappointed....not from the place, but from what I had expected it to be. Until next time,
A Woman of Egypt
